Roland Clan Forums

Jim, The LCD is, as usual, an HD44780 (or compatible) type. Do you have an oscilloscope or access to one? If so, then it's be worth looking up the specs for the interface and 'scoping it out. Compatible displays, albeit not EL backlit, are easy to obtain so it may be worth just trying a replacement....

Assuming everything is working except the display... 1. Check the -12V supply for DC value and ripple. 2. Check VR2 on the main board which is a trimpot for setting the LCD display contrast. It's next to CN11 which goes to the LCD. Check that the voltage on the wiper is adjustable and negative with ...

I've heard tell that the connector design on these is a bit flaky. Sometimes not all pins connect if the card is pushed all the way in. Try pushing it all the way in then withdrawing it a tad. Failing that it my be worth trying to clean the connector. For contact cleaning do not use WD40. My favouri...

Well done Richard -- that was one possibility that didn't occur to me. I'm glad it's solved and the synth can go on providing good service.

Steve

It seems to me that some troubleshooting is required to identify the cause of the problem. 1. Format the card in the XV-5080. Save a file to the card in the XV, and check that you can read it back in the synth. Also, check that you can read it using the card reader on your computer. 2. Format the ca...

All the patches listed in the user manual in the USER GROUP are selections from the other preset banks. The easiest way of restoring them is to do a factory reset. See the user manual page 165.

Hope this helps.

I'm away from home right now, so I can't check mine, but if I remember correctly the floppy drive has separate power and data cables. Ensure that the data cable is secure at both ends and correctly oriented. I can't remember if there's any keying on the data cable, but if there isn't, you may want t...

The first thing to check is your plus and minus 12 volt supplies. I wouldn't go any further until I was sure they were OK.

Can someone confirm that the SMD caps c138 and c154 (the two caps closest to the spdif outputs) are 22μF 16V NON POLAR? Certainly looks that way to me, although I don't have a board to examine, the schematic clearly shows the Japanese symbol for an electrolytic, but without the +/- polarisation sym...

Thanks, you mean with a pencil-type soldering iron? Probably a very fine tipped one under magnification, depending on the lead pitch of the components involved, and using lots of no-clean flux. I don't have the service manual for this model, so I'm limited as to what advice I can give, but if you h...

I have heard of one of these with a similar problem. Was fixed by reflowing most of the solder joints. Presumable it was just one or two flaky joints.

Where are the affected patches? Are any patches in banks other than bank US affected?

Sounds good :) Let us all know how you get on. It seems that the original transformer is a bit underspecified, given the number of failures there seem to have been, so if you find a good replacement it would be good information to share.

It looks like it has an adequate power rating. The physical dimensions are on the datasheet -- you'd have to check whether it would actually fit inside. Yes, some wiring would be required. The connections on the original transformer will very likely not match those on the new one. The most important...

It seems that this transformer is prone to failure. You may find this thread from another forum helpful:

http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-59810.html

Good luck.