jp-8000 pot problem
Posted: 19:48, 18 August 2010
Hey guys,
I have a very frustrating problem with my jp-8000.
I noticed one day that my range knob stop working. Since I never really used the knob I didn't put too much thought into it and just figured I'd fix it when I got around to it. the temp scope said that it was stuck at +110.
But now, I am completely unable to play the synth. After I select any preset the range knob will flutter between +110 and +112 and sometimes jump all the way to +wide, no matter where the knob actually is. I don't have to touch the knob, it will make this jump after I play a few keys
I've done a lot of experimenting, and here is what I know so far:
1. At first I was able to temporarily change the range by pressing the knob down a bit.
----------------------
If I turned the knob without any pressing the synth would not register the movement. This only worked a few times before it completely stopped. It reminded me of a pair of junky headphones. eventually the solder gets loose and you need to fidget with the chord to get the phones to work again, but eventually you need to open up the phones and re-solder.
2. The problem is completely isolated to the range knob.
----------------------
Aside from removing the key bed to regrease some keys I've never gone much deeper inside the synth. I thought the unresponsiveness might be wires needing to be resoldered(like a guitar pot) but I found out that this is not how the knobs work, they are directly attached the board. I decided I could only do more harm than good and quickly reassembled my synth.
3. The fluttering is encouraged by physical movement.
----------------------
If I hardly press a key the range scope may not jump. This is not always constant, as the knob will jump on its own as well. But when the synth is played it certainly expedites the process
Well, that's about all of the information I can think of right now. If anyone has any advice I'd really appreciate it. Through my experience it seems that when a computer board goes you need to replace the entire board. I really hope this isn't the case!
I have a very frustrating problem with my jp-8000.
I noticed one day that my range knob stop working. Since I never really used the knob I didn't put too much thought into it and just figured I'd fix it when I got around to it. the temp scope said that it was stuck at +110.
But now, I am completely unable to play the synth. After I select any preset the range knob will flutter between +110 and +112 and sometimes jump all the way to +wide, no matter where the knob actually is. I don't have to touch the knob, it will make this jump after I play a few keys
I've done a lot of experimenting, and here is what I know so far:
1. At first I was able to temporarily change the range by pressing the knob down a bit.
----------------------
If I turned the knob without any pressing the synth would not register the movement. This only worked a few times before it completely stopped. It reminded me of a pair of junky headphones. eventually the solder gets loose and you need to fidget with the chord to get the phones to work again, but eventually you need to open up the phones and re-solder.
2. The problem is completely isolated to the range knob.
----------------------
Aside from removing the key bed to regrease some keys I've never gone much deeper inside the synth. I thought the unresponsiveness might be wires needing to be resoldered(like a guitar pot) but I found out that this is not how the knobs work, they are directly attached the board. I decided I could only do more harm than good and quickly reassembled my synth.
3. The fluttering is encouraged by physical movement.
----------------------
If I hardly press a key the range scope may not jump. This is not always constant, as the knob will jump on its own as well. But when the synth is played it certainly expedites the process
Well, that's about all of the information I can think of right now. If anyone has any advice I'd really appreciate it. Through my experience it seems that when a computer board goes you need to replace the entire board. I really hope this isn't the case!