Wooden End Cheeks
Wooden End Cheeks
..the easy way..
I had some extra hardwood flooring material laying around... thought I would tackle creating end cheeks today. The hardwood ( Somerset Wide Plank - Hickory Saddle), was maybe an 1/8" prouder than the plastic end pieces... so it sits pretty nicely. I'll probably secure them with double-sided tape, but cut them so they fit pretty tight. It's Hickory, not walnut, but was the right thickness, and looks better than the shiny red bits (to me). You can see the hardwood floor (it's what is in my studio) under my stand..
The existing plastic end pieces come off with three screws (from the inside). There are other posts, and even a video, showing pulling it apart. Took about 10 minutes to pull off the existing bits, and about 10 minutes to cut up these end cheeks. 30 minute job. Had some great tips from Ed Lewis, on the 'XA Facebook page too.
Pic:
I had some extra hardwood flooring material laying around... thought I would tackle creating end cheeks today. The hardwood ( Somerset Wide Plank - Hickory Saddle), was maybe an 1/8" prouder than the plastic end pieces... so it sits pretty nicely. I'll probably secure them with double-sided tape, but cut them so they fit pretty tight. It's Hickory, not walnut, but was the right thickness, and looks better than the shiny red bits (to me). You can see the hardwood floor (it's what is in my studio) under my stand..
The existing plastic end pieces come off with three screws (from the inside). There are other posts, and even a video, showing pulling it apart. Took about 10 minutes to pull off the existing bits, and about 10 minutes to cut up these end cheeks. 30 minute job. Had some great tips from Ed Lewis, on the 'XA Facebook page too.
Pic:
- CesarsoundOne
- Posts: 203
- Joined: 21:29, 9 October 2014
Re: Wooden End Cheeks
It was very nice, congratulations. I'm thinking of doing the same on my JD-Xi.
Re: Wooden End Cheeks
Thanks CesarsoundOne. Looking at this, I picked the least figured piece of hickory I had, for the cheek. Will probably cut a couple more this afternoon. The hard part was pulling out the plastic triangle end pieces (took 10 minutes). I was asked offline how I did that..
Very quickly - there were two sources. MarcusFuller has a YouTube video at this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=590U66Lq_to The other, was a PM I had sent to Ed Lewis, asking which screws held the top section onto the lower section. The last thing you want to do, is unscrew the boards inside the case accidentally, or the keybed. The screws which need to be removed are all on the bottom of the case -- They are the screws around the outside edge of the 'XA, and the one line of screws that is down the middle. You need to leave all other screws in place, or you will be removing pieces from the inside of the case. Once those screws are out - you flip it upside down and can (gently .. do this at your own risk, and the risk of voiding your warranty, and all that is wholesome and good in the universe) pull up on the case. If you watch Marcus' video, you can see that he disconnected ribbon cables, in order to separate everything cleanly. I did not. I was more nervous about breaking a cable, or not being able to get things back together properly -- so I did this surgery on top of a bed. I pulled the case apart enough to see inside, and where I needed to access the screws holding the red plastic endcaps. I was able prop the top aside, where I could access the screws without disconnecting ribbon cables. Probably not the right way, but I was nervous about snapping a ribbon cable. One red end piece unscrews quite easily... the other side has the pitch bend mechanism in the way. That comes off with a handful of screws.. exposing the three screws holding the other red end piece. Took that off, screwed the pitch bend mechanism back, and put everything back together.
With those end pieces out ... and things back together - there is a plastic cavity on each side of the JD-XA... that is ripe for a piece of wood to be cut and placed there. The hardwood flooring I used, turned out to be the perfect thickness... so I only had to cut end cheeks pieces, using the red plastic parts as a template.
Anyway - like I said, this is a project that will certainly void any warranty.. and could easily fry your synth, if you're not careful. On the other hand.. If you're careful, take your time, etc. it isn't too difficult. The wood cuts are straight forward, and symmetrical. You can hold wood pieces in either with epoxy, screw it in from the inside (like the original red pieces are), double-sided tape, or compression fit (tight fit, letting the wood hold itself in). I am using compression for now, but will use double-sided tape, once I get some more cuts with better figure/grain.
Very quickly - there were two sources. MarcusFuller has a YouTube video at this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=590U66Lq_to The other, was a PM I had sent to Ed Lewis, asking which screws held the top section onto the lower section. The last thing you want to do, is unscrew the boards inside the case accidentally, or the keybed. The screws which need to be removed are all on the bottom of the case -- They are the screws around the outside edge of the 'XA, and the one line of screws that is down the middle. You need to leave all other screws in place, or you will be removing pieces from the inside of the case. Once those screws are out - you flip it upside down and can (gently .. do this at your own risk, and the risk of voiding your warranty, and all that is wholesome and good in the universe) pull up on the case. If you watch Marcus' video, you can see that he disconnected ribbon cables, in order to separate everything cleanly. I did not. I was more nervous about breaking a cable, or not being able to get things back together properly -- so I did this surgery on top of a bed. I pulled the case apart enough to see inside, and where I needed to access the screws holding the red plastic endcaps. I was able prop the top aside, where I could access the screws without disconnecting ribbon cables. Probably not the right way, but I was nervous about snapping a ribbon cable. One red end piece unscrews quite easily... the other side has the pitch bend mechanism in the way. That comes off with a handful of screws.. exposing the three screws holding the other red end piece. Took that off, screwed the pitch bend mechanism back, and put everything back together.
With those end pieces out ... and things back together - there is a plastic cavity on each side of the JD-XA... that is ripe for a piece of wood to be cut and placed there. The hardwood flooring I used, turned out to be the perfect thickness... so I only had to cut end cheeks pieces, using the red plastic parts as a template.
Anyway - like I said, this is a project that will certainly void any warranty.. and could easily fry your synth, if you're not careful. On the other hand.. If you're careful, take your time, etc. it isn't too difficult. The wood cuts are straight forward, and symmetrical. You can hold wood pieces in either with epoxy, screw it in from the inside (like the original red pieces are), double-sided tape, or compression fit (tight fit, letting the wood hold itself in). I am using compression for now, but will use double-sided tape, once I get some more cuts with better figure/grain.
- CesarsoundOne
- Posts: 203
- Joined: 21:29, 9 October 2014
Re: Wooden End Cheeks
Hi Jdoo,
Thank you for the tips! I think the keyboard looks stylish with the wooden side panels, and it suits the environment.
Thank you for the tips! I think the keyboard looks stylish with the wooden side panels, and it suits the environment.
Re: Wooden End Cheeks
More pics.. tips. I cut up a piece that had a little more figure. Like anything, stuff goes quicker the second and third time through. This took 5 minutes to make. I still haven't double-sided taped them in, nor glued em. They are staying put for now, and I have an entire extra box of this hickory flooring, with different grain / patterns.
A little more about the wood. It is a flooring material that is 1/2" width in total. The top 1/8" is hickory, and the bottom 3/8" is a ply. They do this for stability, and to save in costs (1/8" of the hardwood is cheaper than a full 1/2") :) Anyway - for end cheeks -- it is perfect, as you want stability / non-warping. You also, probably don't want more than an 1/8" sticking out of the end (i didnt). So it's perfect. I'm writing this -- more as one way to go about creating wooden end pieces for a JD-XA. I don't plan on going into the business... but its an easy project that can be done in 30 to 60 minutes from start to stop, if you have a saw, patience, and are careful.
A little more about the wood. It is a flooring material that is 1/2" width in total. The top 1/8" is hickory, and the bottom 3/8" is a ply. They do this for stability, and to save in costs (1/8" of the hardwood is cheaper than a full 1/2") :) Anyway - for end cheeks -- it is perfect, as you want stability / non-warping. You also, probably don't want more than an 1/8" sticking out of the end (i didnt). So it's perfect. I'm writing this -- more as one way to go about creating wooden end pieces for a JD-XA. I don't plan on going into the business... but its an easy project that can be done in 30 to 60 minutes from start to stop, if you have a saw, patience, and are careful.
Re: Wooden End Cheeks
Those end pieces look really smart Jdoo - great job!
Re: Wooden End Cheeks
Thanks Neil. It really is a 5 minute job to make the cheeks with this hardwood (if you happen to have a bandsaw, and touch-up stain). I made a couple of more end cheeks today. The hard part of this DIY thing, is pulling the JD-XA apart, and not screwing up the inner bits while doing that. Not really that difficult, if youre careful. WIth the red plastic bits out --- a piece of 1/2" wood, fits perfect in the opening that remains..
Here's a pic of the flooring material I used...
Here's a pic of the flooring material I used...
Re: Wooden End Cheeks
Last pics. Again - this is seriously, a 30 minute project, if you have 1/2" material, since that fits the opening in the 'XA. Looking at the cuts... it appears 'wavy' - but thats the ply side. The side that shows, is straight enough. Back to music...
First.. make sure, your wife doesn't catch you cutting up extras - from the front hallway...
First.. make sure, your wife doesn't catch you cutting up extras - from the front hallway...
Re: Wooden End Cheeks
Nicely done! Though I'm actually more excited by seeing Markus Fuller rip apart a JD-XA hahaha... love that dudes videos. GEEK OUT TIME! :P
Re: Wooden End Cheeks
I used to think that the red end cheeks of the JD-XA looked quite nice, but after having seen your work, I am tempted to give it a try...
Re: Wooden End Cheeks
LOL. Agree 100% Myrk. Markus' vids are great. WIthout those, I probably wouldn't have garnered the courage to pull my 'XA apart. :)Myrk- wrote:Nicely done! Though I'm actually more excited by seeing Markus Fuller rip apart a JD-XA hahaha... love that dudes videos. GEEK OUT TIME! :P
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Re: Wooden End Cheeks
More important your floor looks great!
The end cheeks put a premium finish to the synth for sure I like the idea of that, put this with the overlays you can also buy, the synth would look ten times better than Roland's original "Toy" design.
The end cheeks put a premium finish to the synth for sure I like the idea of that, put this with the overlays you can also buy, the synth would look ten times better than Roland's original "Toy" design.
Re: Wooden End Cheeks
Thanks. The overlays are free from Roland. The end cheeks are a pretty fun/easy project. The size (1/2") of this particular flooring, makes the cuts fit a certain way, that imo, looks right, and eases some of the effort, of dimensioning the wood.skinmechanic wrote:More important your floor looks great!
The end cheeks put a premium finish to the synth for sure I like the idea of that, put this with the overlays you can also buy, the synth would look ten times better than Roland's original "Toy" design.
To the project - I discovered a day or two ago, that the double-sided tape works *really* well for holding the pieces in. I needed to pull one of the cheeks off, as I was cutting up some more wood, to make extras for a couple of friends, and wanted to dry fit them. Oy. At least there's no worry about these falling off, if stuck in with the double-sided tape. :)
Re: Wooden End Cheeks
Finished up some sets for some friends ..
Not much to look at, all naked like this - but the top 1/8" sticks out, and looks good.
ahh.. the little pleasures in life . . .
Not much to look at, all naked like this - but the top 1/8" sticks out, and looks good.
ahh.. the little pleasures in life . . .
- CesarsoundOne
- Posts: 203
- Joined: 21:29, 9 October 2014
Re: Wooden End Cheeks
Well done, good job. How did you cut them? It is an electrical jigsaw tool? Thanks.